Family travel: In Tofino, bigger is better when it comes to winter weather

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The roar of the Pacific Ocean is deafening, with its waves churning and thrashing onto the sandy shoreline. My daughter Brooklyn is laughing while dancing in the wind, her long blond hair all a twirl and her cheeks rosy and damp from the salty mist. It’s not raining yet, but a winter storm is coming, and we’re here for the drama. Perched on the west coast of Vancouver Island, in the Clayoquot Sound UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the village of Tofino is set amidst a magical coastal wonderland. It’s a vision of towering old-growth rainforests and sandy shorelines punctuated by jagged outcrops and frothy steel-blue ocean.

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Coined as the “Surf Capital of Canada,” Tofino’s accolades are notable, including making Time Magazine’s 50 Greatest Destinations to Visit in 2022. Shallow seas and temperate rainforests support a plethora of wildlife, including black bears, black-tail deer, marmots, bald eagles, seabirds, otters, sea lions, harbour seals, and killer, gray, sperm, hump-backed and blue whales. Wildlife cruises, whale-watching and fishing tours, kayaking, hiking, and surfing are some of the most sought-after experiences from late spring through early fall. But in winter, the weather is the biggest draw, when epic storms transform Tofino’s tranquil beaches into an exhilarating dance, showcasing the power of wind, surf and sky.

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Beachcombing in winter is also a treat, and there are plenty of soft white-sand beaches in Tofino. Chesterman Beach, a 2.7-kilometre stretch sprinkled with quaint bed and breakfasts and contemporary West Coast-inspired homes, is where locals prefer to comb. My favourite childhood haunt is Long Beach. Located within the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, it connects with a series of beaches and bays to create the longest sand dune on Vancouver Island. Mackenzie Beach is the closest to town and feels like a tranquil haven dotted with tide pools that Brooklyn has spent hours exploring. We’ve also previously stayed at the Pacific Sands Beach Resort and Long Beach Lodge, both of which are oceanfront on Cox Bay. Somehow, even in winter, it’s impossible to walk the beach without seeing water adventurers clad head-to-toe in black neoprene with a board tucked under their arm. For the courageous who dare to brave the icy waters and give the addictive sport a go, Surf Sister is open year-round, offering group and private lessons and gear rental.

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If surfing in frigid temperatures doesn’t appeal, bundle up, grab a beach chair, and enjoy the show. One of my favourite early-morning surf-watching spots is the Great Room at Long Beach Lodge. My standard order is the hash with crispy potato polenta, roasted mushrooms and peppers, arugula, poached eggs, and pepper jam. At the same time, Brooklyn prefers the sweet and satisfying house oatmeal with apple cinnamon compote. We always take our coffee and steamed milk and drink them by one of the resort’s large outdoor firepits overlooking Cox Bay. Dining at the Pointe Restaurant in the Wickaninnish Inn on Chesterman Beach also offers a front-row seat to Tofino’s winter storm scene. We typically book an early reservation, around 5 p.m., and order off the On the Rocks Bar menu as Brooklyn loves the B.C. charcuterie and caesar salad. Due to a kitchen fire, local favourite Shelter restaurant is getting a waterfront location upgrade this spring when it relocates to the former 1909 Kitchen + Bar space in the Tofino Resort and Marina. We’ve enjoyed dining at both restaurants and look forward to reserving a table at Shelter for next year’s storm-watching season.

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Accommodation options in the Tofino area range from pup tents to five-star luxury lodges and everything in between. On our last visit, we stayed at Hotel Zed, which surpassed all expectations and is a fabulous, lower-priced option for families. The concept of this quirky, motel-inspired West Coast chain is ridiculously fun and unpretentious, and the retro-chic Tofino property is absolutely on brand. Its location is also superb – about a 10-minute walk to Chesterman Beach – and features onsite amenities that appeal to kids, teens, and young-at-heart parents. Highlights for Brooklyn were the rainforest hot tubs, custom V.W. bus made from driftwood, the mini disco lounge and hidden 1980’s inspired arcade room. ROAR, Hotel Zed’s signature restaurant, is convenient and serves a delicious fire-roasted menu. For carnivores, the family-style, 37-day dry-aged long bone ribeye, with fingerling potatoes, winter greens and fire-roasted veggies, is divine. Takeaway breakfast sandwiches and coffee are available through the ROAR coffee shop.

Tofino is magical year-round, with winter having the sharpest accommodation prices. Weather, however, can change on a dime in any season, so it’s essential to pack warm layers of clothing with waterproof jackets and footwear. I also like to bring a good book, reusable water bottle, coffee thermos, and my journal, as spending time in Tofino’s ancient landscape feels grounding and inspires deep reflection. I’ve yet to give cold-water surfing a go, but perhaps on my next visit, I’ll finally take the plunge.

Follow Mhairri’s family travel adventures at @Arrivals_Travel.